“Natural wines” are increasingly bantered about these days, but in cool-climate regions like Germany, with highly challenging weather and disease issues, making wines “au naturel” can be a risky proposition. For some, it's a must-do labor of love, and we explore why. Contributing Editor Anna Lee Iijima speaks with two producers from the Pfalz wine region in western Germany who champion such change: Bettina Bürklin-von Gurazdi of Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, and Hans and Valentin Rebholz from the Rebholz Esta