Nate Liles, the Development Director of the American Safe Climbing Association, is here today for an in depth talk about bolt replacement. The ASCA has been doing incredible work replacing old bolts and hardware on routes throughout the country. Since their inception, the ASCA has supported the replacement of 70,000 bolts! In this episode, we talk about how the ASCA came to be, the sketchiest bolts Nate has replaced, Nate’s opinions on bolt types and permanent draws, and the best ways to...

We are psyched to welcome philosopher, author and avid climber Francis Sanzaro to the pod! His book, The Zen of Climbing, is a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing.  We’ll talk about the benefits of releasing attachments and expectations in climbing, the mental state that the most elite climbers inhabit when they send, and even why he hates the term ‘flow’.  Check out all of Francis’s books here: http://www.fsanzaro.com/about.html Join us over...

Welcome back to Part Two of the First Ascent Superlative Awards!  Be sure to check out Part One if you haven’t yet.  It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Hampshire climbing. In today’s episode, we’ll share our votes for the...

Welcome to the First Ascent Superlative Awards!  It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Hampshire climbing.  In today’s episode, we’ll share our votes for the following: Best Boulder Problem  Best Trad Pitch Best Multi-Pitch...

The spring climbing season is just around the corner, and it has us thinking about all of the projects that we’re ready to work on this season. Mike Gagnon is back on the pod today to chat all about it. We’ll each share our approaches to projecting. We’ll tell stories of projects that we sent (and some that we didn’t). We’ll lay out how first ascent projects differ from projects on established routes. And finally, we’ll share the projects that each of us hope to tackle in this upcoming season...

Jay and Lee are here today to answer your latest batch of listener questions! You’ll get their thoughts on a wide range of questions, including the best Rumney sequences, tips for warm fingertips, soul climbing on projects, the role of gym climbing, and even who would be big spoon in an emergency bivvy situation.  Plus, the ever-smoldering gates in vs. gates out fight continues.  Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee...

The Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest was last weekend and it’s one of our favorite events of the year. With a huge turnout and beautiful weather, it was an event that couldn’t be beat. We were on the scene with our mic to capture the spirit of the event.  Enjoy this slice of life from Ice Fest! You might just hear yourself or your buddy on the pod.  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon,...

Today Jay and Lee pen a love letter to the crown jewel of New England sport climbing - Waimea! The flagship crag of Rumney offers a climbing experience like no other, and today the guys break down why it is both so loved and feared. They’ll share stories about their own histories on the crag, and reflect on how they’ve improved as climbers through their experiences on the Waimea routes. Plus, they’ll drop some beta and words of encouragement to get you ready for the next time you approach...

In today’s episode, Jay and Lee share their picks for the best gear they’ve used in the last year. If you’re looking for (mostly) unbiased recs for new gear, this episode is for you!  Plus, the guys share their most hated gear, as well. So you know you’re in for a treat.  Check out the gear recommendations here:  DMM Belay Master Carabiner: https://dmmwales.com/products/belay-master-2 Rab Capstone Pants: https://rab.equipment/us/capstone-pants Edelrid Canary Pro Dry Rope:...

High level climber Rollin Grimmett is with us today to talk about his recent send of the 5.14d climb, Life of Villians in Southern Utah. Rollin shares about how he tackled this send, and he walks us through the calculated training regimen he follows as an outdoor climber in order to push his grades.  Rollin also has a great Instagram at @rrgrimmett, and in today’s episode he weighs in on last episode’s big question: how important is truthfulness in climbing?  Join us over on the First...

Happy New Year, First Ascent listeners! We’re back from our break and ready for 2024. Today we’re starting the year off with an episode all about New Year’s resolutions. We’re sharing ours, reading submissions from our listeners, and judging each resolution as we go. Plus, we discuss a hot topic: how important is it to be truthful about your climbing experiences?  Links:  Cold Fear Podcast. Ep #17 - Social Authenticity  Race to the Summit on Netflix  What are your new year’s...

It’s been an amazing year on the podcast! Incredible guests, fascinating conversations and more than a few bloopers have been had. In order to celebrate the end of the year, we’ve compiled a compilation of some of our favorite moments, plus a few of those bloopers.  We’ll be taking our very first break over the holiday season, but be sure to tune back in in the new year for new episodes. In the meantime, join our Patreon community! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging...

Ice and mixed climber extraordinaire Pat Cooke is back on the pod to help us usher in a new season of ice climbing! Jay had the pleasure of joining Pat on a mixed climb of Fafnir on Cannon Cliff recently and today they’re here to talk all about the experience.  The guys talk about how gear can make all the difference in an ice climb, the mantras and mental exercises they use in challenging moments, and the ephemeral nature of making plans for the winter season. Plus! We finally get an ice...

Our good buddy Jeremy Ballou is on the pod today! Jeremy is a long time friend of the pod who has never shied away from correcting us on our many mistakes. He is also the namesake of Jeremy’s Wall in Miriam Woods.  Jeremy adds his candid hot takes to a new crop of listener questions, airs his grievances with the climbing world, and generally reminds us that we’re full of sh*t.  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content...

Today we’re joined by Vance White! Vance has put up over a hundred routes in the Lander area, is the author of “Lander Rock: Rock Climbs of Central Wyoming”, and is simply one of the nicest climbers in the land.   Our chat with Vance today covers bolting philosophy, the importance of generational mentorship, music at the crag, developing routes with an inclusive mindset and more!  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus...

Thanksgiving is upon us, and we have so much to be grateful for in the climbing world. From our partners to our health, our gear, experiences and everything in between, we’re breaking down the things that mean the most to us in this incredible activity that we all share.  One thing we’re so grateful for is our amazing First Ascent Patreon community! Join us! For only $5-$10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more....

Lee’s in Vegas, baby! So, there’s no better time to talk about how the Las Vegas climbing scene has absolutely exploded in the last decade. Lee shares what he’s been up to, and then the guys list some of their favorite things about the area.  Plus, they explore how different the western mindset is when it comes to long approaches, and what we lose in New Hampshire when we’re unwilling to make a long approach to a crag.  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5-$10 a month,...

Russ Clune joins Jay and Lee on the pod today to chat about his new book ‘The Lifer: Climbing Adventures in The Gunks and Beyond’.  Russ is one of the best traveled climbers in the history of our sport. He has climbed and put up routes on every continent other than Antarctica, and he has the stories to prove it. Today he’ll share about his free solo of Supercrack, how he came to travel so extensively for climbing in a time before the internet, his close friendship with Wolfgang Güllich and...

Josh Garrison joins Jay and Lee on the pod today to talk about his awesome free solo linkup on Cannon Cliff that he completed in less than 3 hours. He’ll walk you step-by-step through the entire experience, and share his thoughts on the less than enjoyable feedback he received when posting about it online.  Then, Jay and Lee will share their stories of Cold War to celebrate listener Ian Grant’s ascent of the classic climb.  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month,...

Accomplished mixed climber Zac St. Jules is on the show today to help us get ready for the upcoming winter season! Zac shares more about Forecast Equipment’s awesome tool, The Nor*Easter, and helps us answer listener questions about when to throw in the towel (or not) on a project and what is necessary in order to become a well rounded climber.  Check out Forecast Equipment here: https://www.forecastequipment.com/ Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get...

It’s time for another round of listener questions! Today, Jay and Lee tackle how to achieve the elusive work/life/climbing balance, the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association, chossineering, the new LCO in town and traveling internationally to climb vs staying in the states.  Plus, hear about Josh Garrison’s solo speed enchainment at Franconia Notch, and the dust up it caused online.  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging...

The Autumnal Climbing Season is upon us! The conditions at the crag keep getting better and better... but that ticking clock in the back of our heads tells us that our time is limited before winter slams the door shut on a lot of opportunities for the season. Jay and Lee reflect on this bittersweet truth and share how their outlooks on it have changed over the years.  Plus - Jay reaches a new level of enlightenment on Technosurfing and Lee almost causes a search party.  ‘As I Walked Out...

Kayte and Torie are back on the First Ascent mics for their second Wifecast! Today’s episode gets philosophical as Kayte and Torie talk about how climbing is a metaphor for taking risks in life. Plus, hear their takes on being their own climbers while being married to strong climbers, having grace with their bodies and minds during hormonal changes, and banishing the shame out of top roping.  Enjoy this conversation and remember: Get out there with no expectations and slow down and smell...

Today Jay and Lee revisit the 2002 classic climbing film “Uncommon Ground”. The guys will go through the featured climbs one-by-one, highlighting all the ways that this film absolutely nails the spirit of New England climbing.  This episode originated from an awesome chat on the First Ascent Patreon Discord! Do you want to be part of conversations like this? Then join us for only $5/month! You’ll get access to the First Ascent Discord, awesome bonus episodes, exclusive beta, route info, and...

Live from Rumney, it’s The First Ascent Podcast! We got to connect with so many climbers at the awesome AAC Craggin Classic this past weekend. The winds from Hurricane Lee kept the bugs away and made for perfect weather for a weekend of climbing and community.  We brought our recorder along with us to the crag so that we could bring you a slice of life from the Rumney climbing scene. Tune in and you just might hear yourself or your friends on the pod!  Join us over on the First Ascent...