This is the weekly column A miracle is happening right now in vineyards throughout the northern hemisphere. “Véraison” is the French term for the time when a wine vine’s tiny, tight green nubs morph into plump, tasty, colorful globes. Red grapes transition from green to red, purple, blue, or black. White grapes transition from green to translucent yellow, orange, or gold. Olivier Lemoine In addition to color changes grapes undergo other vital changes. • Grapes soften, become juicier and more pliable. • Grapes can double in size as they accumulate sugars and other nutrients. • Glucose and fructose levels—sugars—increase, critical to the later production of alcohol. • Malic acid decreases, making tartaric acid predominant, critical for flavor balance. • Herbaceous—green—aromas and taste degrade, replaced by fruity aromas. • The concentration and composition of phenolic compounds, especially tannins, change. Riper grapes with well-developed phenolics are smoother, more complex, and have a more pleasant mouthfeel. • Vines shift from energy production through photosynthesis—leaf production—to energy consumption, concentrating energy to make ripe, sweet grapes. • Véraison occurs in the northern hemisphere beginning in mid-to-late July, but grape variety, temperature, climate, and region influence the process. It may not begin until mid-August some places. • Véraison may not occur simultaneously in a vineyard or even on a single vine. Vines that undergo véraison more evenly generally produce wines with greater complexity and depth. • Véraison means harvest is 45 to 60 days away. Precise timing of the harvest is critical in the production of quality wine. That largely is under the control of humans. Véraison is the magical time that sets up the harvest. That is almost exclusively under the control of God and Mother Nature. The wine you enjoy is the product of this symbiotic relationship. Tasting notes • MGM Mondo del Vino Riva Leone Gavi DOCG 2021: Delicious dry, light wine with admirable crispness and delicious cortese fruit. $15-17 Link to my review • Gigondas La Cave Le Dit De Saint Tronquet, Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu 2022: Solid GSM from Rhône Villages cooperative in a special place—“God’s Plan” [Plan de Dieu]. $18 Link to my review • Hahn Family Wines Appellation Series Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco 2021: Rich, full, round, clean; impressive example of oaked chardonnay, touches all the delicious, well-made chard bases. $22-25 Link to my review • Texas Heritage Vineyard Viognier, Wildseed Farms Vineyard, Texas Hill Country 2022: Deep, delicious, robust, aromatic expression of Texas viognier. $21-28 Link to my review • M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche Blanc 2021: Plump pleaser, rich, fruity, medium-plus body marsanne play. $27 Link to my review Last round Did you hear about the mathematician who was afraid of negative numbers? He would stop at nothing to avoid them. Wine time. Email: [email protected] Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com Website:  gusclemensonwine.com Facebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/ Twitter (X): @gusclemens Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal Links worth exploring Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane. As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe