Five enemies of wine 9-11-2024
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This is the weekly column Wine is your friend, especially when sipped with friends during a convivial meal. You are obliged to protect it from its enemies. Classic factors that negatively impact wine quality: • Oxygen. Exposure to oxygen can be wine’s valued friend or its mortal enemy. The key is moderation. Readers know of my advocacy of decanting—exposing wine from a freshly opened bottle to air to soften tannins, blow off odors, integrate elements. That exposure is relatively brief, measured in minutes or small number of hours. It is a common technique for red wines that also can improve some whites. But too much oxygen is the most significant threat to wine. Too much during the winemaking process can darken white wines to a brownish hue and rob red wines of vibrant color, shifting them into orange or russet shades. Too much oxygen in opened wine will flatten its flavors and aromas. Eventually it will turn the wine into vinegar. • Light. Ultraviolet light, both from the sun and artificial lighting, degrades wine’s flavors and aromas. That is why many wines come in dark bottles and should be stored in a dark environment. • Heat. Higher temperatures accelerate aging and eventually spoil the wine. One telltale sign of excessive heat exposure is a cork that has lifted, also leakage of wine out of the bottle. It is best to store wine between 45 and 65 degrees F, with 55 degrees the ideal. • Vibrations. Constant movement disturbs sediment and messes with the aging process. This especially is important for wine put down for aging. • Humidity. Some humidity—70% is ideal—helps keep corks from drying out. Too much humidity will not affect the wine, but can lead to mold growth that damages labels. These are things to think about, but not to obsess over. Wine is a tough hombre. Even when abused by oxygen, light, heat, vibrations, and humidity, it usually remains drinkable. It just will not deliver the same tasty pleasure you get when you treat it right. Tasting notes • Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley 2021: Incredibly delicious. Ste. Michelle has delivered this amazing value, wonderful riesling for years. $10-14 Link to my review • Vallformosa Mistinguett Brut Rosé NV: Simple, safe, tasty sparkling that will offend almost no drinker or any pocketbook. $14 Link to my review • Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Mellow, well balanced, classic Napa chard, well-done oak and malo. $28-33 Link to my review • Compris Vineyard Midnight Journey Syrah, Chehalem Mountains AVA 2021: Savory, smooth delight scores all points you look for in a syrah. $50 Link to my review Last round What kind of exercise do lazy people do? Diddly-squats. Wine time. Email: [email protected] Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com Website:  Gus Clemens on Wine website Facebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/ Twitter (X): @gusclemens Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal Links worth exploring Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane. As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe
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