Description
In this episode, I describe how I was able to start visiting the Samburu tribe in northern Kenya through meeting a Samburu man who was a night watchman at the tea plantation where I rode horses. He took me to visit his family north of Mount Kenya. It was by bus as far as you could go and then walk for two hours across a vast plain teeming with wildlife till we reached his family's hut. I proceeded to replace my Maasai visits with the Samburu visits as these were much more enjoyable. I recount my wanders past zebra, antelope and giraffe without concern until one day I was on my own surrounded by baboons at a rocky waterhole and realised this was good leopard country as well. Another time I nearly broke my neck helping them carrying water. This gave me great respect for their strength and abilities. I also spent time trekking with the Samburu between different bomas (average of ~30 kms distance each), just walking through the Kenyan Highlands with a few Samburu passing wildlife, including seeing elephants push over a game sanctuary fence and continue on their path.
We mostly attended ceremonies on our treks, where many people arrived from everywhere and joined in the ceremony. I watched morani (warriors) dancing, singing and jumping with the girls watching and joining in at times. I was often busy taking photos and videoing them. Remember, this was the time when mobile phones and digital cameras did not exist so they did not have access to them. The video was a great hit as they could see themselves immediately. At one time, I was threatened with a spear as soon as I arrived to not take any photos. I said okay and walked off, visiting the women elders and drinking chai in a hut. The morani were not expecting that reaction. I knew they would come around. After about 20 minutes I was asked to come outside and start take some photos. I spent much of my time taking photos and getting them developed and giving them copies. It actually was a bit expensive for me with film development in Nairobi at the time around $20, basically a day's wage, but the experiences were so worth it.
In this episode I really learnt to appreciate what it was like living in a hut with limited resources, having to collect water from a spring and carry it back, dealing with daily situations and how visiting meant grabbing your spears and hiking long distances across amazing terrain and past abundant wildlife.
I also start to discuss some of the controversial experiences I witnessed and express my thoughts on the matter. Please note, when I mention 'barbaric', I mean the particular practice and custom is barbaric to the western civilization and I am not calling this tribe or other tribes that practice it 'barbaric'. I believe we really need to understand tribal customs and practices and their meanings so we can support them finding alternative outlets to convey the same meaning when stopping questionable practices instead of just blanket bans with no alternatives. I will continue this discussion in my next episode.
Photo: Samburu warrior at Lerogi Plateau, northern Kenya, surveying the Great Rift Valley. Source - Sapra M.M. The best postcard I ever bought, so much that I bought two of it. This image beautifully sums the magnificence of the land and the pride of the people of northern Kenya.
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