Classifying and Clarifying German Wine w/ Theresa Olkus & Steffen Christmann, VDP
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Description
Having existed through the glory and the doldrums of German wine, the VDP, the association of top wine growers in Germany, has set out to re-establish German wine as one of the finest in the world. With 20 years under its belt, the Grosses Gewachs (“GG”) system has elevated the status of dry German wines in a short time. Theresa Olkus, Managing Director, and Steffen Christmann, President, discuss the history, goals, and role of the VDP and how the GG classification is bringing quality back to dry German wine.  Detailed Show Notes:  Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter (“VDP”) “P” standards for quality, those looking to produce top wines from top vineyardsThe goal is to bring the global recognition of German wines back to when the wines were considered some of the best in the world201 members (2023), up from 160 members (1990)10 regional associationsVDP history Started end of 19th centuryA movement to counter the industrial winemaking trendCreated quality requirements (e.g. - estate bottling, wine was sold in auction by the barrel and bottled elsewhere; no additions except sulfur, sugar was added before)Post WWI/WWII - cheap, sweet wines became popularGerman Wine Law of 1971 - created quality classification based on must weights, varietal agnostic, leading to consumer confusionThe late 70s/early 80s - German wine quality sank (yields too high), and the law created consumer label confusion, leading to VDP revamp, focus on vineyard sitesJoining the VDP 1990-2023 - 130 new members, 1-2 new members/yearMust fulfill criteria, blind tasting, vineyard, and cellar inspectionYou can’t apply or buy a membership; a region must invite a wineryBenefits for VDP members Knowledge sharing Leveraging the VDP brand (eagle logo) - an international sign of qualityVDP events and marketingExporting expertise - 27% of VDP wines exportedLeaving the VDP 1-2 members/year leaveMost coached to leaveMostly leave post generational change - don’t want to follow VDP rules, quality not at the top levelDry German wines Traditional style before 1900Germans drink as much dry as anywhere else in the world, and the reputation for sweet wines is an international perspectiveHistorically - 2-3% potential abv difference between entry-level and best wines. Today, due to climate change, the sugar levels are the same; only the yields and quality of site create differences~60-70% of VDP members don’t make sweet wines, Mosel/Nahe most make sweet, Rheinghau ~20-30% do sweetGrosses Gewächs (“GG”) 2002 - implemented in all regions, started w/ Rheingau 1994/5, Pfalz 1996Created positive brand for dry German wines - increase in the average price of GG wines - 2002 - €16, 2023 - €40 (range from €25-150+)German market response was positive, creating pride in German winesUK pushback - writers thought dry German wines were too sour and lacked quality; last to adopt the new style, only in the last 5 yearsScandinavia - a hot spot for German wineElements for GG success - wineries can only make 1 GG wine from 1 Grosses Lage site; wines have gotten betterSignificant markets for GG - used to be Northern Europe, Asia (China, S Korea, Thailand, Singapore)Africa/India/S America - not strong for German winesMore than Riesling - Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, SilvanerThe next priorities for VDP Renewing German Wine Law, potentially moving VDP classification into lawSustainability/climate change Get access to library episodes Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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