In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a hotly-debated topic - not just in the climbing world but the greater athletic community: Acute Effects of Static Stretching on Muscle Strength and Power: An Attempt to Clarify Previous Caveats authored by Helmi Chaabene, David Behm, Yassine Negra, and Urs Granacher; published in Frontiers in Physiology in 2019. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not stretching in your warmup is what’s costing you that last bit of power you need to send the...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012.  They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been...

Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers? That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you. In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is...