Amid economic uncertainty, a global luxury industry slowdown, and conflicts erupting around the world, designers at the Spring/Summer 2025 shows balanced restraint and expression, resulting in collections that sought deeper emotional and intellectual impact. Megabrands scaled back fashion week festivities as they battened down the hatches with budget cuts and streamlined shows. “I think there's a general caution and a realignment. I think the state of the world is more conducive to reflection...

For decades, department stores were symbols of American retail success, but their shine has long since faded. Overexpansion that began in the 1990s, the growth of e-commerce and the decline of many malls has left a saturated market, with more stores than there is demand. Major department stores have been struggling for decades to adapt to changes in the way their customers shop, with little to show for it.  "These challenges existed ten years ago, but the problem we have today is that it’s...

Alessandro Michele’s whimsical, bold vision as creative director of Gucci revitalised the brand, turning it into a cultural juggernaut. Now, he’s attempting to do the same at Valentino, bringing his signature blend of nostalgia, craftsmanship, and artistic risk-taking to reimagine the Roman couture house.  “This place has such a specific story,” he says. That name, Valentino—it’s a real name, with real life, with real love. … There is always Valentino somewhere with me.” This week on The BoF...

A style renaissance that changed how many men dress – mostly for the better – has congealed into a sea of sameness, at least in the eyes of a growing number of fashion critics and influencers. Too many interchangeable brands take the same approach, blending tailoring with casualwear in neutral-toned collections that are stylish but often fail to inspire. The look is often derided as a menswear “starter pack,” but remains popular with consumers.  This week on The Debrief, Brian Baskin sits...

The renowned grime MC and rapper Skepta knows that there’s no such thing as an overnight success. After the rapper launched his fashion brand, Mains, in 2017, it was put on pause after a split from his manufacturer before making a return to London Fashion Week last year. Progress, he believes, takes time and resilience.   "Like anything in the world, the best way to learn is to do it and fail,” he said. “I know that it’s not a short road … you have to be in it to win. And it could take one...

Luxury fashion remains an exclusive club, where leadership positions are often filled from within tight, familiar circles. Despite industry-wide commitments to diversity and inclusion, the sector continues to struggle with gender and racial diversity in its top creative roles. Many luxury companies still operate within networks that favour traditional backgrounds, making it difficult for new, diverse talent to break through. “It's a role where I think people's unconscious biases really can...

Clare Waight Keller’s career in fashion has been defined by her versatility as a designer and desire to step outside her comfort zone. She started out specialising in knitwear at the Royal College of Art before taking on a role in knitwear at Calvin Klein, before moving on to Ralph Lauren. She returned to Europe to work at Gucci under Tom Ford, and then stepped into creative director roles at Pringle,  Chloé and Givenchy. Last week, it was announced that she was becoming the creative director...

Shein has fundamentally changed the fashion market, challenging fast fashion giants that were not so long ago in the disruptor position themselves. Once the category's upstart, H&M now finds itself struggling to keep pace as Shein redefines consumer expectations with ultra-low prices, endless selection and lightning-fast production. In response, H&M’s new CEO has unveiled a strategy to target the elusive middle market, hoping to position the retailer as more affordable than Zara but...

Fashion narrator Lyas is one of the most compelling and authentic fashion communicators to have arrived on the scene, and whose takes on fashion shows and editorials are incisive, honest and well-informed.   “I think we’ve lost the mindset of thinking that it’s possible to be creative and make money for the company, because the golden age of designers is over,” he says. “Now, every designer is disposable. It’s like musical chairs—every month, there’s someone leaving, someone coming.” Lyas’s...

Nike’s streak as the undisputed leader in the activewear category spans generations, but the brand is facing its most significant hurdles in decades. However, recent shifts in leadership, oversupply issues and a botched direct-to-consumer strategy have chipped away at its once-untouchable brand image. As challengers like Hoka and On gain ground, and archrival Adidas surges, Nike faces mounting pressure to innovate and reconnect with consumers.  “Nike remains a behemoth, … but all is not...

As the first female, Black, and South Asian Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris’s every move is closely watched — from her policy decisions to her wardrobe. With Harris now leading the Democratic ticket in the 2024 presidential election, her style and beauty choices — from her for her sleek silk press hairstyle to her endless variety of pantsuits — have sparked renewed discussion.  “She is communicating something, even if it's not remarkable,” said BoF senior correspondent...

2024 has brought forth the arrival of the “Sephora tweens,” which refers to members of Gen Alpha (roughly defined as those born between 2010 and 2024) who have enthusiastically taken to buying up skincare and makeup. This phenomenon, driven largely by beauty-related chatter on social media, has resulted in a new wave of brands catering specifically to this younger demographic. “There are now teen brands, tween brands, 20-something brands, 30-something brands. … I think we can thank the DTC...

Many of fashion’s largest manufacturing hubs, particularly in South and Southeast Asia, are increasingly at risk of dangerous, record-breaking heatwaves. As extreme heat becomes more frequent, more intense and longer-lasting, what is the cost to industry and how will we adapt to the growing climate risks? Senior correspondent, Sheena Butler-Young and executive editor, Brian Baskin sat down with BoF sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent to understand what rising global temperatures means for...

Creative directors and brand strategists Juan Costa Paz and Nordine Benotmane, who founded Paris-based creative agency Convoy in 2012, are paid to think outside the box for clients from Nike  to Louis Vuitton.  “We care about having conversations outside of the fashion echo chamber,” said Costa Paz. “I like to create tension, even if people don't like things, because I do think that it's good to try to create the conversation,” added Benotmane.  This week on The BoF Podcast, Costa Paz and...

Willy Chavarria has become a force in American fashion, known for his Chicano-inspired take on menswear. Last year, Willy broke through, winning the CFDA award for Menswear Designer of the Year. For more than two decades before that, Willy worked behind-the scenes in major American fashion companies like Ralph Lauren, American Eagle and Calvin Klein. But now, he is focused on building his own business. At the centre of his designs is a focus on community and equality:  “I sat with my team...

Sport and fashion have always been a part of Stéphane Ashpool’s life: He was raised watching his artistic parents socialise with designers like Claude Montana in Paris, while simultaneously falling in love with basketball watching the LA Lakers on TV. He followed both of these passions into adulthood, eventually launching streetwear brand Pigalle in 2008 and going on to collaborate with brands like Nike.  “I have as much curiosity for couture as I have for sport kit,” said Ashpool. “I knew I...

2024 has the potential to be a dynamic year for dealmaking in beauty, as brands including Makeup by Mario, Kosas, Merit and even Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty begin exploring their strategic options. But strategic buyers and private equity firms are also adopting more selective acquisition strategies. At The Business of Beauty Global Forum 2024, Vennette Ho, managing director and global head of beauty and personal care at investment bank Financo Raymond James shared her expert views  on this...

In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on the Rapid Response podcast, part of the respected Masters of Scale series. “The most interesting thing you can do, if you look at historical photos going back 50 or 100 years, is to look at what people are wearing. It gives you a sense of what's happening in the world at that time,” said Amed. “When we look back to 2024, and see the Hoka sneakers, the athleisure, and the streetwear looks that people are...

Paris Couture Week has come to a close, and Tim Blanks and Imran Amed sat down for their seasonal review of all the most important  collections — from Schiaparelli to Armani, the standout looks, and of course the designers who brought them to life.  They also discuss the significance of Dries Van Noten’s final collection, which was the most important moment during the menswear shows, and also how the brand will take things forward now that Dries is stepping back.  “Alain Gossuin, the first...

From her miraculous birth as the daughter of a Holocaust survivor to becoming a fashion powerhouse with her signature wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg's remarkable journey is one of resilience, innovation, and empowerment.   In a new documentary about her life called "Diane von Furstenberg: Woman in Charge,” Academy Award-winning filmmaker Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy combines archival footage and intimate interviews with von Furstenberg’s closest friends and family to paint a vivid picture of a...

Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz was drawn to fashion from a young age, devouring issues of Vogue and Tatler. This led her to set up D’NA, a members-only boutique based in Saudi Arabia and Qatar. 10 years later when she closed her boutique, she became the founding editor in chief of Vogue Arabia – but soon parted ways with the publication due to a misalignment in values. Now, Aljuhani Abdulaziz is back with her own media publication, on her own terms. ‘Deenathe1st.com’ is an editorial lifestyle...

As a self-styled “image architect”, Law Roach has earned global recognition for the red carpet looks he has created for some of the most famous — and most photographed — women in the world.    But in 2022, when he suddenly announced his retirement on Instagram, writing “If this business was just about the clothes I would do it for the rest of my life but unfortunately it’s not! The politics, the lies and false narratives finally got me! You win…I’m out.” While Roach continues to work with top...

Husband and wife duo Gucci Westman and David Neville’s luxury beauty label Westman Atelier has become an industry favourite, winning fans for its curated collection of cosmetics, holistic approach to beauty and strong focus on ingredients. “Our customer knows that she's getting something that is clean, is going to perform, is going to be good for her skin, and is going to be a luxury experience she hasn't had before,” said Westman.    “We think about brand-building in the literal sense of...

Footballer Héctor Bellerín first made a name for himself with his defensive skills on the pitch but it’s his outspoken views and distinctive personal style that have transformed the Spanish right-back into a cultural trailblazer. Now, Héctor, who has been called “the world’s best-dressed footballer”, is launching a new label, Gospel Estudios, which has served a creative outlet as he continues to play football. “This was a way to recharge my battery. It was a way of learning something new, do...