Description
In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers:
The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength
Authored by Dave Giles, Oliver Torr, Thomas Randall, Remus Knowles, and Stephen Atkins; published in The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research in January, 2020.
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Which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in sport climbers?
Authored by Eva López-Rivera, Juan José González-Badillo, and Vanesa España-Romero; published in Gait & Posture in October, 2021.
They’ll attempt to determine whether or not isometric finger strength has been proven reliable in predicting climbing ability, and if how it’s measured affects this reliability.
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Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
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