Episodes
Buster Martin is a top level British climber, coach and all round nice guy. We talk to him about his recent ascent of Action Directe, his finger injury recovery, getting strong on pockets and creating a climbing coaching business which allows him to climb and work all around the world.
Published 06/14/23
A totally great chat with adventure photographer Krystal Wright. She's been to 50+ countries, taken photos of just about everything, telling a stories through the image. We dig into becoming a photographer, sharing work online, finding creative inspiration, living on the road, work vs creativity, looking for new angles at familiar locations and much more.
Published 12/08/22
We love Steve's ability to boil down the science to lay terms and give practical advice on how to apply it in life. To us, that’s the hallmark of a great coach. Steve’s new book Mettle was the catalyst for this chat. The book digs into the philosophical side of climbing and those softer skills which are so easily forgotten or overshadowed by going hard on strength.
Published 11/08/22
Maddy Cope is a UK climber, Lattice Training coach and self professed menstrual cycle enthusiast. We chat about her climbing, training, headspace and take a deep dive into the menstrual cycle and how you can navigate your climbing life with it.
Published 02/16/22
Ollie Torr is one of the founders of Lattice Training, a Sheffield based training and research company. Perhaps best known for their research and accumulation of testing data to help predict performance. In doing so, they have helped answer the big question in climbing. How strong do I need to be? In this episode however, we don't get buried in the weeds of numbers and energy systems, rather, we dig into the real-life side of climbing. We get into mental fatigue, the benefits of having a...
Published 12/21/21
We chat with Oceana about her experience climbing at the Olympic games as well as her life leading up to qualification.
Published 12/01/21
The climbers' Olympics! Tom O'Halloran was the first Australian male to represent Australia at the Olympics for Sport Climbing. His partner Amanda Watts helped him get there. In this episode, Tom and Amanda are joined by their good mate, John 'Sherro' Sheridan to help them tell the story from qualification to Tokyo.
Published 09/13/21
Dave Jones, what is there to say other than legend! He was at the forefront of hard Australian climbing in the 90’s and early 2000’s. He established and repeated many of the hardest routes and boulders in The Grampians and Arapiles in this time. He wasn’t just a one trick pony of hard edge pulling though, his list of scary trad lines is up there as well. His ground up first ascent of Shai-Hulud, 25X is a stand out of complete mind control. Those unfamiliar with the route, it’s 45m of vertical...
Published 06/06/21
What does the inside of the indoor climbing gym scene look like? We sit down with Pat Banda and Dan Gordon and discuss setting, building culture, creativity, holds and much much more. Pat and Dan are head setters with Urban Climb, perhaps the biggest climb gym business in Australia. They know what's what. It's a super interesting insight to a world we really only see the top layer of.
Published 04/26/21
Where is the line drawn between a clever tactic and cheating? The evolution of climbing tactics and trickery is constantly evolving, generation to generation. When has it gone too far though? In this episode Helen Day and Lee Cujes join Tom and Amanda to discuss s few current trends and where the line is for us.
Published 02/17/21
Tom O'Halloran has now qualified to represent Australia in Sport Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics. The Oceania Climbing Championships were held at the end of 2020 giving one athlete for each gender from the region a chance to represent their country at the Olympics. Tom talks about his early climbing journey, (unknowingly) meeting Adam Ondra for the first time, competitions and transitioning from outdoor to indoor climbing. We also get into the decision making process to go for the Olympic...
Published 01/15/21
We've all fluffed up a send. In this episode, Leah Dempsey and Matt Norgrove join Amanda and Tom to discuss why we haven't sent something. Each route has something to teach us and here's a few lessons we've learnt.
Published 11/13/20
Duncan Brown is a climber, coach and great guy. We talk about his approach to coaching adventure athletes, accountability in training, the evolution of what inspires him, spending 4 summers on Ozymandias and developing new routes in China. There's a classic story at the end where he tells us about the time he helped Dani Andrada bolt one of the worlds hardest multi pitches. He is also the man behind Athlete by Choice and has recently announced he'll be opening a dedicated mountain sport...
Published 10/28/20
Australia, how good is it! Past guests Lee Cossey and Jake Bresnehan join Tom O’Halloran to talk about where we think Australian climbing is heading. There’s probably no better time to dive deep into some Australia love, as the not so awesome super-bug grounds planes and forces us to buckle up for domestic road trips. We see a bright future ahead for Australian climbing.
Published 08/10/20
Climbing pregnant and with kids. Amanda Watts, Andrea Hah, Helen Day and Carlie LeBreton talk about their experiences during pregnancy, birth, recovering from childbirth and pregnancy, climbing life with an extra member of the family and tips and tricks which might help you on your journey.
Published 07/19/20
Madeleine Crane from Climbing Psychology is on the podcast today. In our chat we get into the dynamics of men and women in the climbing scene and why it can be hard for some people to step up and climb to their full potential. We discuss positive and negative self-talk and how we can reframe when things don’t go to plan. We also jump into visualisation, the positive outcomes of a bit of friendly competition and dealing with dips in motivation.
Published 05/28/20
We speak to Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, owner and manager of Skywood Climbing. Yossi is the master mind and creator of one of the best woody’s I’ve ever seen so he’s the perfect person to give you a few tips and ideas to make the most out of your setup. https://www.skywoodclimbing.com/home-2
Published 05/09/20
No fuss training talk with minimal pandemic talk. We cover a lot of ground in our chat today. From weekly programming, how to check if the training is working and how to gain strength without having your finger hovering over the injury button. Steve also lays out the symptoms of overtraining and most importantly how to avoid it. He has created a fantastic and simple recovery checklist, link below, to keep your body, health and training in tip top form. Amanda and Steve also touch on the...
Published 04/29/20
How do you get the most of out climbing training when you don't have access to it. Lee Cossey, Amanda Watts and Tom O'Halloran sit down and help you keep your psyche and training on track during this difficult time. Finger strength, general strength, mindset and technique improvement are all covered here with practical tips you can implement straight away.
Published 04/06/20
John Sheridan is a strength trainer, power lifter and has competed in strongman events. He runs Burley Strength in Canberra and has been climbing for a few years now. Here we chat strength and it’s role outside of the performance world as well as the importance of being a beginner. John is also co-host of Peak Speak podcast which talks all things strength and powerlifting training.
Published 02/27/20
Stuart is the first Australian to climb Punks in the Gym, 32/8b+. He climbed many hard first ascents and repeats in the early to mid 90's. In the late 90's climbing took a back seat when he turned to study. He is now an Astrophysicist looking at the origin of the early Universe and is the Head of Physics at Melbourne University.
Published 01/31/20
Vince Day was right in the middle of the explosion of hard routes in the first decade of the 2000s. In this chat he gets into vulnerability, headspace, finding yourself and getting up to try again.
Published 12/19/19
A wrap of the 2019 Australian open climbing Nationals with Amanda Watts, Tom O'Halloran and Rob and Carlie LeBreton
Published 11/22/19
Duncan sits down with Amanda and Tom and chats all things competition climbing in Australia. Duncan is the National Coaching Director for SCA.
Published 10/29/19