Episodes
When we think of cutting edge climbing, we think of cutting edge athleticism. But what about the mental side? The true test of finishing the world’s most difficult routes may not come down to strength, but mental fitness. Today, we are joined by Jonathan Siegrist to discuss the mental hurdles climbers experience. Sometimes you have to let go to hang on.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get 20% any purchase (new customers only) COROS Use code...
Published 06/21/24
Published 06/21/24
Kai Lightner is on a tear. When we last spoke with Kai, his path in professional climbing was unclear. He’d struggled with disordered eating, injuries, and growing into his adult body after a decade of success in competition and his path back to the upper limits of climbing seemed uncertain. Last year, Kai turned his attention to climbing outside and took the emphasis off results. An incredible string of sends followed, and once again Kai has found himself at the forefront.   Watch Climbing...
Published 06/14/24
A decade ago, climbing’s most controversial figure wasn’t someone who’d lied, chopped routes, or chipped holds. It was a young woman who’d savvily harnessed the internet and social media to power her competitive career. Unintentionally, Sierra Blair became a lightning rod. Today, Sierra’s approach might simply be considered best practice for an athlete on social media, but a decade ago it sparked conversations about who gets to call themselves an athlete or a “real” climber, and it exposed a...
Published 06/07/24
Sometimes we all need healthy competition. Last summer Alex, Tommy Caldwell, and Sonnie Trotter hatched a plan – each would attempt to climb 9a in the coming year. Climbing at your limit demands attention and accountability, something each was struggling with on their own. Together, the goal seemed a little more probable. Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face AeroPress use promo code CLIMBINGGOLD to save 20% off your order Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to...
Published 05/31/24
When Kris Hampton launched the Power Company, training for climbing was in an awkward adolescence. Research and tactics were woefully behind adjacent sports like gymnastics. Gym sessions were a stop gap for time outside and training programs were the realm of competitive youth teams and a few hardened professionals. We dive into the evolution of training, the difference between a coach and a trainer, and how close we are to the limits of human possibility.  Written in Stone Kris'...
Published 05/24/24
News flash: having kids changes things. Paige Claassen and Emily Harrington join Alex to discuss the new normal, reaching limits while sleep deprived and the calculus of risk as they move into parenthood. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.  LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any order  Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get 20% any purchase...
Published 05/17/24
For the last decade, no climber has moved our sport closer to the future than Adam Ondra. While he’s known for his visionary sport routes, he’s excelled in every aspect of rock climbing from competition to big walls. Adam sat down for a wide ranging interview to talk about the limits of what’s humanly possible, the Olympics and shiver bivying on El Cap with his father. Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch...
Published 05/10/24
We will be back later this spring with all new episodes of Climbing Gold, but in the meantime we wanted to rerun an episode from our first season: “This Place Will Change Climbing”. We dive into what makes Memphis Rox a unique climbing gym. And right now, Memphis Rox needs the climbing community to step up and help them through a tough financial moment. Good ideas need champions.  Support Memphis Rox   Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 03/22/24
In Part 2 of Adapted, Mo Beck and Jim Ewing head to the Lotus Flower Tower. Hugh Herr embarks on life after climbing and tackles one of humanity’s greatest challenges. Denny Kowska seeks to build an adaptive community from the ground up.  Resources Hugh Herr's Ted Talk Jim Ewing's Film Adaptive ParaCliffHangers Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Group Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 12/15/23
Climbing’s first phenom survives a near death experience and life altering accident on Mount Washington. In rural Maine, a young girl born without a hand discovers climbing. In the aftermath of an accident, an engineer resolves to complete a lifelong dream. Hugh Herr, Mo Beck and Jim Ewing take us on a journey in a two part series about human potential, generational friendships and the power of climbing. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing...
Published 12/08/23
Style vs substance-- they are one and the same in climbing. It governs how we aspire to do routes. It inspires us. Done right, it will stand the test of time. Today, we sit down with climber Katie Lambert and photographer Ben Ditto.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 12/01/23
When protests erupted in Iran in fall of 2022, human rights activist and professional climber Nasim Eshqi was climbing in France. As she watched the uprising back home unfold, Nasim knew that returning home at that moment would mean arrest and imprisonment at the hands of the government. She doubled down on her criticism of Iran’s repressive regime and used her climbing to bring the struggle to the international climbing community. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak...
Published 11/24/23
Underground legend and editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda joins us to talk safety. We can learn from mistakes, but sometimes it’s worth speaking up before they happen.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 11/17/23
After successfully establishing the first fair means ascent of Cerro Torre’s SE Ridge and chopping Maestri’s bolt ladder, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk smash into reality. In the mountains, a rescue for their friend is under way. In El Chaltén, frustration boils over and the police get involved. Meanwhile, David Lama heads back up the mountain. Years later, the community reflects on the Cerro Torre.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold...
Published 11/10/23
In the 2000’s, a new, global generation of alpinists armed with a broad toolkit of skills and advancements in weather forecasting led a climbing golden age in Patagonia. While popular, Maestri’s Compressor Route becomes the target of climbers looking to leave a lasting impression on the sport.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 11/03/23
How big of a problem is lying in climbing? Jonathan Siegrist returns to the show to talk about dishonesty in our sport.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 10/27/23
With doubts circling in the press, Cesare Maestri returns to Cerro Torre with hundreds of bolts, a compressor engine and gallons of gasoline intent on conquering the mountain. What ensues borders on madness leaving the next generation to untangle Maestri’s lies and correct an abomination. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 10/20/23
In 1959, Cesare Maestri, an outsider and rebel drawn to the siren song of the world’s fiercest mountain, Cerro Torre, ripped a hole in climbing’s only true rule – a climber is only as good as their word. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
Published 10/13/23
In May 2022, The Full Circle Everest team made history when seven of the members reached the world’s highest point. They were the first all black expedition team to do so. Today, we talk with Phil Henderson, Adina Scott and Eddie Taylor about their experiences on Chomolungma and the power of summits.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens
Published 06/30/23
Is reaching a summit the true measure of success or is there something deeper? In 1978 a dream team of alpinists – Jim Donini, Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, and Michael Kennedy – spent 26 days tackling the North Ridge of Latok 1 in the Karakoram range and came up just short of the summit after illness struck. Their attempt became legend and a testament to the power of friendship. The North Ridge suddenly became the most coveted alpine climb on the planet, rebuffing new generations of climbers for...
Published 06/23/23
A route’s history is important, but does it make it sacred? As our sport grows, people are considering whether adding bolts to existing routes to make it safer or more accessible might be a valid idea. Prolific first ascensionist, student of the sport and arguably America’s best sport climber Jonathan Siegrist joins the Climbing Gold team to discuss. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens
Published 06/16/23
We journey through the world of Moonboarding with the world’s best – Ravioli Biceps. And Ben Moon walks us through the underground climbing trend that started in the cellars of Sheffield, England and has now spread across the globe. Everybody can play. Everybody can contribute. Everybody can connect.   Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens
Published 06/09/23
Could a route change you? Kareemah Batts joins Alex, Fitz, Lauren and Leici to talk about the routes that changed what they thought was possible.  Adaptive Climbing Group Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens
Published 06/02/23
In April of 2022, Anna Pfaff set out to tick an Alaska classic – the Harvard Route on Mount Huntington. With her partner Priti Wright, Anna romped up the 3,000 foot face of ice, rock and snow, but the climb would prove to be a life changing experience. Frostbite would force doctors to amputate most of her toes. As a professional athlete, Anna would have to come to terms with her new best. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens
Published 05/26/23