Episodes
After a year on the 35’ sailboat “Calypte”, Torren Martyn returns to discuss how his grandmother’s adventures 60 years ago led to this journey, the pitfalls and virtues of learning to sail while at sea, living with snakes onboard, and how the voyage was the perfect preparation for parenthood. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 11/30/23
Just a note, during Thanksgiving week here in the US, to express my deepest gratitude for giving me the opportunity to do this work. Happy Thanksgiving! Music: Bonnie Raitt, Thank You Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 11/22/23
After 40 years touring and drumming for one of the biggest punk bands on the planet, Smelly joins us to discuss his transition into surfboard shaping and how the intensity of youth can that ignite a life's journey, the camaraderie of his bandmates helped him kick heroin, showing kindness to one's self amplifies recovery, and why all of his success can be attributed to a single drum beat. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 11/15/23
Community activist Eddy Garcia joins us to discuss his efforts to re-house victims of Lahaina’s fires, how developers have already taken advantage of displaced families, the perils of disaster capitalism, the necessity to reduce reliance on tourism, and the inherent virtues of self-sufficiency. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 11/09/23
Adroit craftsmen Bill Stewart returns to discuss the elusive paradox of Gordon Clark, the stately humility of Phil Edwards, the effortless earnestness of Jimmy Buffett, and how they each bolstered and buoyed him through his successes and losses over the years. Part of two of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 10/31/23
Jovial raconteur Bill Stewart joins us to weave his tale from barefoot skiing in Kentucky, to fudge-making for Carnies in Michigan, to Shanghai'ing a teen to California in search of surf, to becoming one of surfing's preeminent board builders, along with the fortunes and friends earned and lost along the way. Enjoy this, the first of a two part series. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 10/25/23
Era defining pioneer of the shortboard revolution, writer, World Champ, Nat Young joins us to discuss abandoning his animal aggression, reveals his favorite modern shapers, shares stories of Tom Blake & Miki Dora, and illuminates some of his greatest lessons learned and shared in his latest book, “Church Of The Open Sky”. Enjoy! Intro Music: I Know You Rider, The National and Bob Weir Outro Music: I Really Need Love, The Bees Learn more about your ad choices. Visit...
Published 10/19/23
Surfing's preeminent historian returns so that David can attempt to write Warshaw's EOS entry. Herein Warshaw recounts the first time being punched in the face, donning Edward Norton's wetsuit, analyzes which prejudice is unjustly credited to surf history, and explains how a recent life altering diagnosis changed his perspective on this relationship with surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Published 10/12/23
Honoree of this weekend's Icons of Foam Tribute, Bing Copeland started Bing Surfboards in 1959. After sharing his first wave with Greg Noll and under the tutelage of Dale Velzy, Bing became one of the largest board builders of the 60s. In today’s episode Bing discusses his origin story, the value of delegation, transitioning the Bing legacy, and the incident that caused him to quitting surfing. Enjoy! (Link to Episode 190 with Matt Calvani) Intro Music: Bob Dylan, Mississippi Segue Music: Bob...
Published 10/05/23
2x Icons of Foam winner Roger Hinds joins us again to discuss how moving out at age 14 cultivated the work ethic to yield 50 years of board building, the virtues of taking advice from people with less experience, the paradise and peril of Hawaii in the early 70s, and why you should be riding an 8' shortboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 09/27/23
Marine Biologist, freediver, surfer, Brinkley Davies joins us to discuss harnessing the power of social media to activate people's compassion for animals, why the benefits inherent in freediving help guide her environmental charity work, how a fateful incident with a kangaroo led to her mothering a joey, and how to mitigate burnout by not surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 09/21/23
Pro surfer, second generation board builder, Greenough acolyte and EPS advocate, Ellis Ericson joins us to discuss the inherent limitations of molded surfboard blanks, feeling foreign in his hometown of Byron, how distancing daily life from technology has propelled his greatest strides forward, and how to induce zen through the hum of a planer. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 09/13/23
Maui's Joshua Weisfeld shares the harrowing story of losing his home and factory while narrowly escaping the fires, gives insight into the rich board building community that existed in Lahaina, surveys the diaspora, and attempts to develop a blueprint for steps towards rebuilding. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 09/07/23
Handmade, custom tailored, wetsuit designer Shane Jones joins us to discuss how youthful angst can be a catalyst to pursue your passion, why experiencing adversity should stimulate motivation, how it's never too late to radically redesign your life, and how he collected 8,000 square feet of goods for Lahaina's families in need. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 09/01/23
Surfing's preeminent funny man joins us to chat about the importance of making risqué jokes in today's cancel culture, why surf culture is ripe for lampooning, the time the WSL told him he could have a job if he combed his hair, and how if you identify race as a punchline of a joke, you may be the problem. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 08/23/23
Billy is back to discuss the difficulties of raising Laird, discovering Nazare, the benefits of psychedelics, and how his relationship with John Milius ended with a punch and a transfer of one millions dollars. Enjoy! (Originally published May 27, 2020) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 08/18/23
Billy Hamilton joins us to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization’s expansion, his early travels in Kauai in the 60’s, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part One of Two. Enjoy! (Originally aired May 2020). Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 08/11/23
Outer Banks' finest Vlogger joins us to discuss how he entered the surf world's awareness with a 10 at Pipe, how growing up alongside YouTube primed him for the rigors of selfie stardom, the exact workload and ROI of producing weekly content, early pioneering trips to Skeleton Bay, and how leaving a decade-long relationship with a shaper has expanded his awareness of his own surfing ability. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 08/04/23
2x Big Wave World Champ Paige Alms joins us to discuss the gift of her mother’s wanderlust, how restaurant work financed her surf career, the Jaws incident that necessitated a jet ski purchase, and the virtues of returning to a hunter-gather lifestyle. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 07/26/23
Underexposed multidisciplinary talent Bryce Young joins us to chat about his new film, how Burch’s unique boards broke down perceptions of his own limitations, his father’s sage and surprisingly simple advice, the devastation of losing everything to a fire, and why now is the right time to share decades of archival family footage and story. Enjoy! Intro Music: Jim James, State Of The Art Outro Music: Yusef Lateef, The Plum Blossom Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 07/20/23
Polymath Matt George joins us to discuss 35 years of surf writing, why surfing fosters female power and male vulnerability, the dangers of the algorithm eroding surfing's great lessons, narrowly escaping Hollywood, and why emergency relief work has become his life's passion. Enjoy! Intro/Outro Music: Allen Ginsberg and Phillip Glass, Wichita Vortex Sutra Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 07/12/23
22 year old surfboard shaper John Simon discusses the value of starting with a broom, developing his craft under the Trimcraft tutelage, how extreme designs deliver subtle effects, the perils of growing too quickly, and how riding other shapers boards has provided his quickest lessons learned. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 07/07/23
The current World Longboard Champ joins us to discuss the ecstasy and obligation that comes with achieving your life's goals, the virtue and burden of being "underrated", the value of defying definition as a professional surfer in 2023, and the futile endeavor of applying a judging criteria to surfing. Enjoy! Into music: Allen Toussaint, Southern Nights Outro music: Calexico, Alone Again Or Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 06/29/23
New Jersey's former grom phenom Shaun Crowley joins us to discuss returning to surfing after a decade hiatus, how to sell it all and relocate your life to Mexico, why you should delete Instagram (but start a YouTube channel), and the freedom and refuge that comes with finding your community. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 06/21/23
In Part Two, Jeff Johnson explains how he side-doored his way into becoming Patagonia’s first staff photographer, the toll of being sued by one of his surf idols, and he distills the value of being naive to your own limitations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Published 06/15/23