The cool autumn evenings have arrived in Madrid and on a wander down Madrid's Calle de Arenal, I had a sudden craving for Spain's favourite warm, sweet treat — churros y chocolate! This a quintessentially Spanish snack that can be enjoyed at any time of year, but I think during autumn and winter churros y chocolate are a perfect comforting warmer. Join me as I visit Madrid's iconic Chocolatería San Ginés and pull up a chair at an old marble table in its dining room that dates back to 1894. As I dunk and chomp my way through this sinfully delicious delicacy I take in the surroundings, look at the photos adorning the walls, and take in the basement 'train carriage-style nook'. I also talk about San Ginés's interesting literary connection to modernist playwright Ramón María del Valle-Inclán and his play Luces de Bohemia. Next stop Los Artesanos 1902 where I see their churrero in action in the kitchen, albeit through a glass window, and explain how churros and porras (the thicker version) are made. Final stop is a very quiet Chocolatería Valor for another round of churros and run-through the curious history of this snack and also when it is usually eaten. (Not for dessert!) Other must-visit churrerías that I mention in the episode: Chocolat La Antigua Churrería  Churrería Camu  Churrería Santa Ana Here's a bit more background about the play Luces de Bohemia