Coach Matt Pincus discusses some drills he uses with his clients and himself to train the different energy systems in climbing: power endurance, strength, and endurance.

Ashley Hardy talks about how she climbs outside 4 days a week with a full-time job and how she climbed 5.13c with no conventional training.

Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate strength training sessions into your routine, why you’d do that, and which exercises to do, whether you’re a novice, intermediate, or elite climber. He provides 2 fully laid out strength training days for you at the end.

Stacy Sims, MSC, PHD, is a well-known exercise physiologist and nutrition scientist who has done groundbreaking research and education for women in athletics. Dr. Sims has published over 100 peer-reviewed papers and several books and is a regularly featured speaker at professional and academic conferences, including those by USOC and USA Cycling. Stacy currently holds a Senior Research Associate position with SPRINZ- AUT University, supervises PhD students, writes academic papers, and is on...

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some very detailed rock climbing projecting tactics to make your process more efficient. He goes over why you’d use a top-down vs ground-up approach, why you might want to use both of them, and when each is appropriate. This is for you if you want to hear from a 5.14/V12 climber about how he gets projects done and how he advises his clients to get theirs done. You can sign up to work with Matt as your coach at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.

Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com who was recently on the show. After that episode was done recording, we decided we should do a coaching session with him as my coach! So we recorded it right then and there, which was a couple months ago. In the session, he asked me a lot of clarifying questions to figure out how to create a training program for me, which he did the day after this conversation (links below to see that program or find them on trainingbeta.com on the...

Coach Alex Stiger describes a 3-month slump she was in, how she methodically got out of that slump, and how she coaches her clients to get re-motivated when they’ve lost their psych for climbing.

Sport Psychology Coach and head youth climbing coach, Zoe Sayetta, talks about mindset coaching for youth climbers and adults alike.

Ravioli Biceps, one of the world’s best Moonboarders and a prolific Moonboard setter, talks about how he approaches Moonboarding mentally, how he trains, and how he makes it all happen with a grueling full-time job.

If you are a person who is maybe a little too intimately familiar with the term "wobbler," then this one is for you... 😉 This is the audio version of an article I wrote where I compare two similar climbs I did--a 5.13b in 2019 that I fully wobbled on, and a 5.13b I sent a few weeks ago that I fully enjoyed climbing on until then end. I describe how I've evolved (slowly but surely) from wobbling through constant self-flagellation and shame... to enjoying pretty constant self-acknowledgment and...

Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber talks about how you can train efficiently rather than overtraining in order to get more out of your sessions.

Climbing coach Karly Rager discusses the reasons your training and climbing in the gym often don’t quite prepare you for outdoor climbing, and what to do about it.

I do a mindset coaching session with climber Robynne Murray about her negative body image to find tools for her to have less shame about her body and more of a sense of belonging in this community. Work with me on your own negative body image at www.trainingbeta.com/mindset.

Jesse Grupper is a 27-yr-old climber who frequents podiums at international competitions, has climbed up to 5.15a and has flashed up to 5.14c. He is an amazing climber. AND I LOVE watching Jesse Grupper in climbing comps. His infectious smile, his tenacious try-hard, and his incredible climbing strength and skills are exactly why I watch climbing comps in the first place. I was so thrilled that he agreed to an interview, and I asked him a lot of questions about his approach to climbing, his...

Climbing coach Matt Pincus does a coaching session with Kyle Smith to help him reach his goal of sending his first 5.13a (7c+).

Bronwyn Hodgins is a 31-year-old Squamish-based professional climber and climbing guide whose main focus until recently was big wall and crack climbing. In 2022 she sent Necronomicon (5.13d/14a), which is one of the hardest roof cracks in the world. Before that send, she had climbed up to 5.13d sport and 5.13c trad. In the summer of 2022, Hodgins and a team (including her husband, Jacob Cook) made a film about an expedition where they spent 65 days putting up many first ascents in Greenland,...

This is a replay of an episode that originally aired in January, 2023. I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are...

Ben Hanna is a 25-year-old professional climber originally from New Mexico. He climbs hard sport routes outside and he’s active in competition climbing. He started climbing at the age of 10 and quickly gained notoriety as a youth competitor. He’s gone on to podium at 2 national championships and climb 5.15a. I wanted to talk to Ben about how he trains, what his competition mindset strategies are, and what it’s like to be a professional, full-time climber. He goes into detail about his “early...

If you are a short climber who gets frustrated by your height sometimes, this episode will give you a roadmap to look at your own feelings, values, and thoughts about the situation so that you can enjoy climbing for what it is to YOU - not how it compares with someone else’s experience.

Author, psychologist, researcher, and clinician Aric Prather, PhD  talks about the practical advice he wrote about in his book The Sleep Prescription: 7 Days to Your Best Rest and the work he does in his sleep clinic. In this interview he offers clear steps to help you sleep better so you can feel more recovered, energetic, and calm in life and in climbing.  Things people do to help them sleep that actually undermine sleep How to use cognitive behavioral therapy to sleep How to properly wind...

I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like. We looked at three case studies: The 9-5 employee Shift workers (health care workers, etc) Parent who may or may not have a job Things We Covered How to fit training in even on work days for a...

This is a repost of the interview Steven Dimmitt did with me on episode 214 of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In it, I talk about how mindset coaching massively improved my climbing and my life, why I got into coaching, and we do some coaching on Steven throughout the interview. Thank you to Steven for having me on the show again. I always love talking to him :)  After the interview, we did some bonus questions from his patrons about nutrition, coaching, and the business side of things. We get...

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.

Shaina and I sat down and answered a bunch of questions we received from our Instagram audience about nutrition for climbers.